As a young girl in India in the 1990s, I read a lot. If, like me, you were an avid reader as a kid, you would have fantasised about steaming mugs of hot cocoa, bubbling punch, toffee apples and candied nuts. Of course, the thought of gingerbread was something exotic. After all, the houses of wicked witches were made of gingerbread to lure innocent kids like Hansel and Gretel.
They say you should never lose the child in you. Well, a child is precisely what I am currently, as I wander the famous Weihnachtsmarkt or Christkindlemarkt of Germany, realising my childhood dreams in the truly magical ambience where gingerbread cookies, roasted buttery chestnuts and vanilla sugared almonds are a reality. The heady waft of cinnamon, star anise and warm brandy lead me to the popular glühwein (German mulled wine) hut, where the characteristic large pots are bubbling away. Funnily, they remind me of the wicked witch’s cooking pots in my picture story books. Of course, for my German friends here, my amusement is amusing!
Warmth in the cold
The word glühwein is literally translated to ‘glow wine,’ which refers to the red-hot irons used to heat up the wine in medieval times. Red wine is heated in large brass pots with cinnamon, cloves and star anise, combined with brandy or rum, orange and other variable elements. I was told that this stall is always the first stop as sipping on some warm glühwein warms up the body to enjoy the rest of the market activities in the freezing temperatures. I love how kids are given equal attention here: the same stall serves kinderpunsch, a non-alcoholic spiced blend of berry and apple juices which had my kids asking for more. Alternatively, a German hot chocolate with vanilla or cinnamon is equally tempting. One of my favourites is the spiked hot chocolate with a choice of rum, brandy or Baileys. Pure indulgence!
If you fancy something more potent, try the famous Feuerzangenbowle, a dramatic drink where steaming rum is poured over a large sugar crystal, which then melts into the red wine and fuses the flavours together.
Yuletide season begins early in Germany —from November 21—when the advent period commences. Every city, town and village has a central Christmas market and several smaller ones, too. Each usually has a unique theme, décor style and some attraction for kids. The array of food on offer varies slightly based on regional specialities.
The rathausmarkt or town hall market in central Hamburg is a dreamy wonderland. Imagine yourself walking down a cobblestone alley lined with twinkling warm lights. Little wooden huts dot the path, each one beautifully decorated. You stop at a small hut selling local handmade goods before moving to the next stall where you pick up warm roasted chestnuts, before stumbling upon the gingerbread cookie stand for customised name cookies for your kids. As you stroll along, a band playing Christmas carols serenades you. Just then, you glance up and catch sight of the town hall, with its majestic Christmas tree lit up in front of you.
Land of enchantment
Behind the incredible displays of food, toys and artisanal creations are cheery spirited men and women in traditional costumes. To the Indian child in me, they look like they jumped out of a Grimm Brothers fairy tale. We tucked into some bratwurst (grilled sausages) sandwiched in bread, topped with mustard and pickles. I also enjoyed the Swiss raclette, where a huge block of mature Swiss cheese is flambéed and the melted top layer scraped off onto some crusty bread, with toppings of your choice. Such a delightful sensory experience! Of course, you can well imagine the pleasure of that complemented with the mulled wine in a place with a temperature of minus two!
These Christmas markets are also a great place to stock up on unique gifts, from ceramic pottery and handmade wooden toys and puppets, to natural organic honey and preserves, scented candles and much more. The cacophony of excited children (including my own) on the charming musical carousel adds to the vibrant buzz all around. This market’s highlight is a visit from Santa’s ‘flying’ sleigh at scheduled timings—a fun little show executed with elaborate fanfare. The Christmas parade every Saturday during the advent weeks is another spectacular display of the festive spirit. Illuminated floats with Christmas characters from reindeer and angels to Santa and his elves dance by, while the people around are showered with artificial snow.
What an enchanting atmosphere! By now, I think you too are lost in the markets of beautiful Germany. Frohe Weihnachten! Merry Christmas!
Natasha Celmi is a chef and food writer. She is the author of the award winning cookbook, Fast Fresh Flavourful. Her mantra is Smart Cooking: minimal effort, maximum flavour using fresh local produce.
From HT Brunch, December 24, 2022
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